It is beginning to get hot and dry on us, and we all put too much hope into those 20% rain forecasts. While it is miserable outside, keep in mind, that at least it is better than last year! Watering is still critical this time of year, and do conserve your energy by gardening early or late in the day. There is much to do in the garden, so go fight the mosquitoes and heat, and do it early.

The majority of the state was fortunate to have some pretty decent rainfall in July-and that is something to brag about. I have had reports from some areas who seemed to miss those showers, and they are in worse shape than the rest of us. We need some rainfall now, so if you don't get any, be sure to supplement. When it gets this hot out, daily watering is needed in container gardens, and two to three times a week for our lawns and garden, depending on soil type and what you are growing. Ideally, we still would prefer to water once a week, but rocky soils, poor slopes and other factors do come into play. When you plant new beds, prepare the soil well by adding compost or other organic matter, remove as many rocks as possible, and mulch well. Then consider plants that aren't as water needy. All of these components can cut down on watering needs.

Extra watering in both the natural form of rain, or your garden hose, can lead to mosquito problems. These critters are bad this season, so help reduce the populations whenever you can. Look for any standing water in your yard-from the catch basins under your pots, to kids toys or even plastic tamps-wherever water can stand for more than a few days, you can breed mosquitos. If you have bird baths or small ponds that don't have moving water, consider the mosquito dunks-small circular floating "donuts" that have BT in them. They are safe for birds or other animals, and only kill mosquitoes and prevent them from hatching.

Lacebugs have been particularly bad on our azaleas this year. The leaves are turning a silvery sheen in many landscapes. This is from where the sap is being removed from the foliage. While there is still plenty of growing season left, you will not be able to totally recover, even if you start spraying now. Orthene or similar systemic insecticide can reduce your populations some, but the damage won't disappear. These leaves should fall off next spring, and new green ones will replace them then. Use caution if you are spraying now-when the weather is hot and dry, plants need to be watered before any pesticide is used.

Gradually raise the height of your lawnmower this month to start building a stronger root system. If we get a break in the weather, consider applying your last application of fertilizer too. All nitrogen fertilizer should be applied no later than mid September to warm season grasses. If you grow fescue, hold off for the cooler days of fall.

Save seeds from perennials for a fall sowing of seed. Coreopsis, butterfly weed, purple coneflower, and Liatris all have seeds forming. Let them dry on the plants, then harvest. Prepare a new planting site by removing grass, weeds etc. Add organic matter, till and get ready to plant in October.

Although many home gardeners have let their vegetable gardens go now, there are still plenty of weeks left in the growing season. Now is the time to plant for the fall garden. All of the warm season crops can have another planting-squash, tomatoes, peppers, etc, and then the cool season broccoli, cabbage, greens, beans and the like. You do have to be diligent getting the garden established now-mulching and water are vital. Monitor closely to catch any insects or diseases that may try to take over. If you use plastic as a mulch in the garden, cover it with an organic covering of leaves, straw or newspaper. The plastic alone keeps out weeds, but it will heat up the soil too much when it is already hot outside. This can damage your young seedlings.

If you think your vegetable garden is a lost cause, or you simply don't have the energy to replant, consider sterilizing your soil now with soil solarization. Till up the soil you wish to sterilize, water thoroughly, then cover with clear plastic, making sure you have firm contact between soil and plastic. The combination of plastic, and our hot temperatures, should kill out many disease and weed organisms. It is best to leave the area covered for a minimum of four to six weeks. Afterwards, there will still be time left to plant some fall crops. Many people think black plastic is better for this than clear, but in the heat of summer, clear plastic is preferable. If you cover for the winter or use plastic in the early season garden, black plastic is preferred, but now use clear-you get better heating. If you are sterilizing, be sure that you don't cut any holes in the plastic or tear it in any way. You want a sealed environment to build up heat.

By now, the blackberry harvest is behind us. The canes that bore the fruit should be removed, and the remaining canes should be topped to a height of four to five feet. This will make picking the fruit next season easier-and at a more manageable height. Keep them watered, mulch to keep weeds down, and mow around the perimeter to keep any wandering sprouts down.

Herbs should be harvested in the morning after the dew has dried, but before they get exposed to hot sunlight, which can reduce their essential oils. Use scissors or pruning shears to prevent damaging the plant when cutting. If you have more herbs than you can use in a timely manner, consider drying, freezing or making something with them. You can take a combination of herbs you frequently use in soups or stews, and freeze them in ice cube trays filled with some water, to use as you will all winter long.

If your summer annuals have seen better days, you can replace them with more annuals, or it may be that a simple haircut will rejuvenate them. If your annuals have just gotten leggy, pinch back every other plant. This will allow you to have color in the garden while the sheared ones sprout back out. Once the cut plants have recovered and started pruning, cut back the others. Continue to fertilize and water annuals, and they can keep blooming up until frost.

If your crape myrtles are short enough to prune, remove the spent flowers. There is still enough warm, sunny weather left for another set of flowers. If the trees are too tall to prune, don't worry about it. But pruning off the lower spent flowers, prevents seed set and should give you another set of flowers.

Lack of water, coupled with intense heat, slows down many biological processes in plants. It is usually called heat dormancy, but lack of moisture is just as responsible for the dormancy as is heat. Your plants will compensate for it by becoming inactive. Use caution when fertilizing or spraying. Make sure there is ample moisture in the plant before applying either one. With fertilizer, be sure to water it in well after applying. Many people have noticed that some of their plants seem to show heat and drought stress more quickly this season. Part of this is a result of their already weakened stage from the past winter and summers. Water is key.