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As we end one year, and look forward to another, it is a good time to reflect on the past season. It was an interesting year–weather wise, from beginning to end. We started off with horrid ice storms, which really damaged many trees, and we are ending with the monsoon season. In between, it was actually a pretty good growing season for most parts of the state, with milder temperatures and almost ample moisture. While January is not a big gardening month, there are some chores to be done, and lots of planning can occur. Many of our soils are waterlogged now, so planting and transplanting chores need to wait until the ground has dried a bit. Keep in mind, that cooler temperatures slow down evaporation, so it takes a bit longer for the soils to dry out. Working in wet soil can damage the soil structure, so be patient. Standing water isn’t good for the roots of our existing plants, but in most cases, there is little you can do to alleviate it. Amazingly enough, some parts of the state still have not had a killing frost. All of us have experienced some light frosts, but a heavy killing one has missed many of us. I have never seen Impatiens and tropical hibiscus in bloom in December, yet they were around in many yards–and in some cases still are, along with other summer annuals and tropical plants. The unusually mild weather has confused many plants. Blooms have appeared on some azaleas, and the early spring blooming camellias have been blooming or showing color in many landscapes. Roses are still blooming in many landscapes. You can’t prevent them from moving, but do keep a close eye on the forecast. Camellia japonica blooms that are showing color–or open, will not withstand freezing temperatures. Roses are similar. If you have a hard frost predicted–below 30 degrees, you may want to cut some buds or blooms to enjoy indoors. As you take down your Christmas tree, consider some of the uses for them. They can be a bird shelter in your yard, serve as a wind screen, or be shredded for compost and mulch. State parks use them for natural shelters for wildlife, and to help stop erosion. Game and Fish uses them to put in ponds and lakes for fish shelter. Many communities now shred them for their compost, so consider your options. Hopefully we won’t have a repeat of last years ice storms, but January is the month we can potentially have problems. If snow or ice should occur this winter, use caution around your plants. Heavy accumulations of snow can cause limbs to break. Lightly removing the snow with a broom or rake can lighten the load. Don’t work too vigorously, since frozen limbs are brittle and can break easily. If ice occurs, don’t try to get it off. Avoid much contact with frozen branches. Walking on frozen grass or groundcover can damage or even kill plants, so try to stay on paths or sidewalks as much as possible during really cold weather. Plants that get heavy exposure to sunlight, can lightly be covered if ice does occur. This can soften the effects of sunlight and ice. Again, use caution around the frozen plants. Poinsettias can stay pretty for months after the holidays, with a little care. Bright light and even moisture are really all the care they need. Make sure they have ample drainage for watering, and that you don’t allow them to get too dry in between, and they will continue to brighten your home after all the other decorations are gone. There are still leaves falling, so raking chores may still be needed. If you have done a good job of raking through the season, a mulching lawnmower may be all that is needed now, for a quick clean-up. Shredded leaves make a good mulch, or are great for the compost pile. Spring bulbs are up and growing, as they often are. Our milder weather may have sped things up a bit faster, but you can’t stop their growth. Mulching lightly once cool weather arrives, can help to slow the growth down, but never cut off the leaves–it is their only set. The foliage of spring bulbs is very cold tolerant. Occasionally ice storms cause some burning of the leaves, but mulching can soften this. Some varieties of early bulbs bloom in late January or early February, so the leaves should be at least poking out of the ground. If wet weather prevented you from planting in December, try to plant as soon as the ground is workable. They may be a little delayed in blooming, but they should do fine. Don’t forget about the birds. To attract a wide variety of birds, consider different types of feeders and seed. Some birds prefer ground feeding, while others will fly to the feeders. When you begin to provide food for wildlife, you are attracting animals other than birds. The factors to consider for birds besides food, is shelter and water. Everything from bird baths to houses are available to foster this hobby. Amaryllis bulbs have become a popular gift during the holidays. They give us some welcome color indoors, after the holiday finery is gone. These large bulbs do produce large flowers, and often can get top-heavy. Turn the plants periodically to keep them from leaning, and you may want to provide some extra support. Water when you see signs of growth, but don’t over-water. After bloom, remove the flower stem, but let the foliage grow. Give them plenty of sunlight and then move them outdoors in the spring. Fertilize monthly outdoors, and let them grow. By fall, they can be brought back inside to repeat the whole cycle again. Pansies and other winter annuals seem to be enjoying the cool, moist weather. To keep them looking their best, remove the spent flowers and fertilize when we have our periodic warm-ups. They should continue to bloom through spring. If you still have pansies to plant, be sure to pick blooming plants, to ensure color throughout the winter. The mild weather also gave a jump-start to many winter weeds. While the grass may not be totally dormant in some parts of the state, if you see a lot of fresh green–it probably isn’t your lawn, but winter weeds. Winter weeds include henbit, wild garlic and onions, chickweed and the horrid sticker producing spurweed. If your lawn is inundated with small stickers every spring, they should be growing now. Look for small parsley like foliage and spot spray with herbicides or rake up. They are easy to kill before they set that nasty sticker. Most of these winter weeds can be controlled with a 2,4-D herbicide. Another nuisance the mild weather caused, was an influx of large tree aphids. Some parts of the state have seen huge hordes of these dark brown or black insects. If you look closely at them, they do resemble seed ticks. The heavy rains should have knocked them back, but a freeze should wipe them out for this season. As soon as the Christmas cards quit coming, you can begin to expect garden catalogs. Dreaming and planning can begin in earnest. I think catalogs are an excellent alternative to garden books. Todays catalogs are loaded with good information,–updates on new varieties, wonderful color pictures of the plants, and useful culture and care information. Use these to give you ideas on what plants you want to try, and then visit your local nurseryman to see if he has them, or can get them for you. Houseplants and tropical bloomers that you are overwintering indoors, may not look their best now. Many of our plants slow down in new growth during the shorter days of winter. Later this month or in February consider cutting back the tropical flowering plants. They should be fairly acclimated to the conditions indoors–lower light, less humidity, etc, and should have lost all the leaves they are going to. Cutting them back, should encourage some new growth. Begin to increase watering and fertilizing as you see new growth beginning. If you have plants in a holding area in the garage or storage building, hold off until mid February to prune them back. You are basically keeping these plants alive, not expecting them to thrive or bloom. Water sparingly every two to three weeks to keep them alive. They should bounce back, once you move them outdoors in the spring. Information provided from Janet Carson's Gardening Calendars and the following: University of Arkansas
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