It happened, even though we hoped it wouldn't. February came in like a lamb, and ended like a lion on steroids!! Record low temperatures across the state, have definitely put a crimp in our early spring. Hopefully, your landscape suffered minimal damage, and it is time to get in the garden and plant, prune and more!

As everyone has experienced, we aren't totally in the clear for frosts. Keep a close eye on the weather predictions and have protection close at hand. Low growing perennials and small shrubs are easy to protect with sheets, blankets, cardboard boxes or simply mulch. Large shrubs and trees are another story all together, and you just have to hope and pray. If we do have another round of cold weather, stay away from your plants while they are frozen, since they are brittle. We were lucky with the lowest cold temperatures we had good wind movement, which prevented a heavy frost. Still, cold nights are much more damaging. Inspect your plants for damage, and remove any soft mushy frozen tissue. If it is just burned leaves, give them a chance to drop on their own and put on new leaves.

It may feel like winter outside, but it is spring inside at this week-ends 11th annual Arkansas Flower and Garden Show which is at the Statehouse Convention Center through Sunday. Come get inspiration for your own lawn and garden, and a pick-me-up from the cold. For more information call 821-4000.

Spring bulbs have been blooming now for several weeks around the state, and should continue for a month or two more. Lightly fertilize your bulbs and allow them to grow for at least six weeks following bloom. This replenishes the bulbs and allows them a chance to set a flower for next spring. Dig and divide those that are too crowded, and immediately replant. There are numerous sites to visit daffodils fields around the state, and don't miss the annual Camden Daffodil Festival - Camden, Arkansas - March 8-9, 2002 9 am to 5pm each day.

Our winter annuals have had a good season and most are blooming great. Deadhead spent flowers and give them one last shot of fertilizer. While pansies may be available now at local outlets, you won't have a long season of enjoyment with–they will start to get leggy with warm weather. In one month you can begin planting warm season annuals. A quick shot of color can be added with English primroses. They won't last when it heats up, but they come in a bold set of colors, and can really add some quick color to your landscape.

This is the season to divide those perennials that bloom summer through fall. Leave your spring bloomers alone, or you will interfere with their flowering. As your perennials begin to pop up, dig up the clump and divide as needed, replacing them quickly. Some plants, like chrysanthemums benefit from a yearly division, while others would prefer to be left alone. Tall flowering perennials often flop over under the weight of their blooms. As they begin to grow this spring, consider putting perennial stakes or supports around them for them to grow up through or around. Peonies, garden phlox, Shasta daisies all benefit from some extra support.

Pruning of fruit trees is an annual chore. If you didn't finish your pruning chores in February, there is still time to get it done now. It is usually easier to prune before they begin to bloom and leaf out, so that you can see what you are doing, but you won't hurt the plants by pruning later. Dormant sprays should be applied before you see color in the flower buds. Regular spray programs for insects and diseases usually begin when two thirds of the flower petals fall. You can get copies of spray guides at your local county extension office.

If your groundcover doesn't look its best right now, consider giving it a light pruning. Many groundcovers, including the grass like ones: Liriope and mondo grass, benefit from an annual haircut. Even ivy can begin to look a little bedraggled after a winter. If you can get into your beds with a mower, you can mow your groundcovers at a high setting, or cut them with a weed eater or pruning shears. Be sure you check for new growth before you cut, or you may be left with some ragged looking plants.

It is vegetable gardening time. Every cool season vegetable from greens to onions, potatoes, lettuce, broccoli, and more can be planted this month. By mid month you can begin to plant snap beans, and even some early corn varieties. Easter is coming early this year, and many folks plant around Good Friday–which is March 29, this year. Personally, I wouldn't plant tomatoes until mid April, but you can take your chances. Broadcast fertilizer before planting your garden, and then side dress six to eight weeks later.

Weeds are growing in lawns now. These winter weeds will kick in and begin blooming soon. Try to keep them mowed to prevent seed set, which will cause more weeds next spring. There is still time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent your summer weeds, and you can use a broadleaf weed killer to kill the winter weeds, but do it soon.

This is the season for gardening and plants are arriving daily at local nurseries. This is a good time to begin planting shrubs, perennials and more. Seedling perennials often spend the first season getting established, holding off until the following year before they bloom. The perennial hellebore–Christmas or Lenten Rose should still be in bloom this month, and are usually only available at nurseries in the early spring. If your garden could use some late winter through spring color, consider planting some. They are best for light shade.

March is the month to aerate and/or dethatch your warm season lawn, if it needs it. If your soil is hard and compacted, or your lawn has a large accumulation of thatch this is a good time to remove the thatch and get some oxygen into the soil. Machines can do both jobs, and they can be rented at most rental companies. You can also dethatch using a sturdy lawn rake, but it is hard work. Hold off on the first fertilization application until the lawn has totally re-greened.

If you grow the cool season fescue lawns, they are at their prettiest right now. These cool season lawns thrive in the cool, moist conditions of late winter and early spring. Fertilize them one last time this month with a high nitrogen fertilizer. If you did not seed them last fall, you can seed or sod now. Keep in mind that spring seeding doesn't produce the best results, since summer hits quick. Heat is always a problem with tall fescue. Sodding has proven to give quicker and longer lasting results. Use one of the turf type of tall fescue.

When planting onions, the size of what you plant is important to the end results. You have two options for planting, either sets (small bulbs) or transplants (bundles of 60 - 80 small plants). If you are planting for green onions, choose the larger sets–those bulbs bigger than a dime. If you want large dried onions, plant sets that are smaller than a dime in diameter or use the transplants. You can harvest the smaller plants for green onions whenever the tips are six inches high. The flavor will get stronger with age and size.

The mild weather in early and mid-February had people sunning houseplants all over the state. I hope you all got them moved back inside before the cold snap hit. Wait until mid to late April before making the transition. Even though you think it would be a nice change for the plants to sunbathe for a day or two, this is too much strain on your back–and not all that healthy for the plants either. They should be acclimated to their indoor spot now, and can wait a little longer for the fresh outdoors. I know you are ready to reclaim some territory, but be patient a little longer.

Herb gardens are becoming popular gardens in the state, and herbs make a wonderful addition to the general garden–provided you don't spray pesticides. Herbs can add color, texture and interest to the garden, with relatively little care, and you can have an edible landscape. From rosemary to thyme, lavender and oregano, consider adding some herbs to your garden. Full sun is best, but they will tolerate a little shade, provided they get a full six to eight hours of sun a day.

If you didn't get around to pruning your summer blooming plants in February, and they need some pruning, do so soon. Crape myrtles are usually the last plant to begin growing in the spring, so there should be no problem–remember, don't butcher them when you prune. Rose bushes have been actively growing for some time, and many people were concerned that pruning would interfere with flowering. If you don't prune, you are going to have a mess in your gardens by summer. Think about how big they are now. Pruning is not going to hurt them after they have begun to grow. Other plants which benefit from yearly pruning now are buddleia and summer spireas. Prune them back hard to encourage new growth, and more flowers. It doesn't matter if they have leaves on them, just do it soon.